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Turbo_Boss
New Member
Panama
4 Posts |
 Posted - Jan 03 2007 : 12:29:45 PM
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Hello Guys, I want to improve my remote car alarm system in order that when the alarm goes off it honk the car factory horn + the alarm siren but when I arm/disarm the alarm I just want the siren to chirp and not the horn.
Please keep reading so you undertand what I need.
I just install a Hornet 727T alarm in my car. The alarm brain comes factory with a Positive 12V 1amp output wire to drive a 128 db siren, a Negative 200 milli amp 1 seg pulsed output wire to drive the factory car horn RELAY to make it hunk and it has a built in relay that supply a Positive 12V 10 amp output wire to flash the parking lights.
When the alarm goes off the siren sound continually, the horn hunk every one seg and the parking lights flash.
When I arm the system via remote control, the siren chirp one time, the horn hunk one time and the lights flash one time.
When I disarm the system via remote control, the siren chirp two times, the horn hunk two times and the lights flash two times.
As you can imagine the horn hunk during arm/disarm is driving my neighbors crazy:-(
I have read the instrucction manual and there is no way how to solve this. Also, I write on a car alarm forum and everybody toll me the same.
So, I want to assembly a electronic project that can make the Horn Hunk "ONLY" when the alarm goes off but not hunk during arm/disarm...........I just want only the siren to chirps confirming that the alarm is armed/disarmed.
Can you guys help me with electronic diagram that can go conected with the alarm ouput wires described above to solve my issue? Keep in mind that I need a negative output wire that provide a 1 seg more/less intermitent pulse to drive the factory car relay/horn ONLY when the alarm goes off. The output have to be strong enougf to drive the factory relay and it need to be protected in some way in order that the feed back from the horn relay coil does not damage the electronic gadget............. Also,if it necesary, I can find the factory horn relay under the dash and solder a diode across the horn relay coil in order to protec the gadget. Just le me know.
If you need aditional info, just let me know.
Thank you for your help and time.
Isaac |
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Turbo_Boss
New Member
Panama
4 Posts |
Posted - Jan 05 2007 : 09:13:31 AM
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Maybe I can use a 555 timer circuit to keep the horn from sounding unless it receives power from the alarm for more than 3 seconds. That way the horn will not sound during arm/disarm. The horn will take 3 seconds to sound during alarm.
The 555 timer circuit can take the signal from the 12V+ wire that drive the siren and wait 3 to 4 seconds to energize a relay that when the contacs close it allow the alarm horn wire to conect with the car horn.
Could it be posible that you guys help me with a a schematic of this circuit with his respectives R and Cap values? I have a small relay in my house and later I can give you the relay detail.
Thank you so much for your time and help,
Isaac |
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easytreasure2
New Member
3 Posts |
Posted - Jan 05 2007 : 1:11:05 PM
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| You say that the siren chirps when you arm/disarm. Would this chirp alone annoy your neighbors. If the chirp is OK then don’t connect the horn, the siren will be OK for the alarm. I wonder if there could be something wrong with the unit. My neighbors just does a chirp when armed/disarmed. I never heard it go off under full alarm, but the horn may go as well then. Seems strange to have a siren and horn. |
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Turbo_Boss
New Member
Panama
4 Posts |
Posted - Jan 06 2007 : 3:03:57 PM
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The siren chirp does not annoy my neighbors and thats why I just want to have the siren chirp confirmation but I relly want to have the horn hunk when the alarm goes off in full because on the parking lot of my oficce there is a lot of car whith the same siren that goes off on the day and nobody knows what car is because all sirens sound the same none of then the horn sound. Thats why I want to have my horn hunk this way I will know is my car the one that the alarm goes off.
I will need a 555 circuit desciobed above that work with a AXICOM D2n relay that I already have. Here is the relay info.
Nominal Voltage -------------------------------- 12 Vdc
Operate/Set Voltage Range --------------------- Min Vol 8.4 Vdc
Operate/Set Voltage Range --------------------- Max Vol 27.9 Vdc
Release Reset Voltage Minimun ----------------- .060 Vdc
Coil Power ------------------------------------- 200 mW
Coil Relay Resistance -------------------------- 720 oHM ± 10 %
THX,
Isaac
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cyclopsitis
Nobel Prize Winner
Canada
732 Posts |
Posted - Jan 13 2007 : 7:39:53 PM
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Hey, I think a delay would be a perfect idea! Just use a circuit to delay connection to the horn because when you arm/disarm the system it only chirps for what 2 or 3 seconds. You could have a circuit that connects the horn after it receives three or four chirps in a row. I remember once on my car I left the lights on so when I got back to the car it wouldn’t start but I could hear this slight beep, beep, beep sound. I got my buddy to give me a boost and then the alarm went off. My car's system starts out as a chirp sound but after 10 or so of those the horn starts going on too. It was annoying but that is how my car works. You could do some think like that. I know there are IC's that can count a certain amount then become true to activate a circuit like and AND circuit or something... I just don't know enough about the circuit to tell you how to make it, sorry.
Although, what I think would be even better is having your car's alarm system hooked up to a 50000V system that knock any potential thieves off their feet :D ha-ha! Just kidding but my wheels are turning.
Ken |
Edited by - cyclopsitis on Jan 13 2007 7:41:33 PM |
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bob
Apprentece
6 Posts |
Posted - Feb 02 2007 : 3:16:53 PM
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| I had the same problem with a very similar alarm system. I designed a circuit with a 555 timer and a relay which disables the horn for a few seconds when the door unlock pulse is applied. I tested the ckt. on a large breadboard and now have to assemble it onto something I can put in the car, hopefully I will get to it this weekend. Once I am finished and everything works I will provide you with a schematic for my design. |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 03 2007 : 10:37:42 AM
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Sweet. I would love to see that circuit as well as I could use it in my Insight.
If you are willing to share, I'll add it to the circuits page on this site as well. |
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bob
Apprentece
6 Posts |
Posted - Feb 05 2007 : 10:42:14 AM
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Here is the schematic. I give no guarantees  , although it worked for me. |
Edited by - bob on Feb 05 2007 10:48:13 AM |
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bob
Apprentece
6 Posts |
Posted - Feb 05 2007 : 10:56:18 AM
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| To the moderator, I had a hard time figuring out on how to post an image file. After a few tries I figured it out, but uploaded the same image multiple times. Sorry. |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 06 2007 : 09:28:08 AM
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| Would you be willing to allow me to add this to the circuits page? If so, let me know who you want the credit to go to (your forum ID or your real name, and any email address). |
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bob
Apprentece
6 Posts |
Posted - Feb 07 2007 : 10:07:31 PM
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| Forum ID would be fine. Thanks. |
Edited by - bob on Feb 07 2007 10:08:09 PM |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 08 2007 : 09:20:17 AM
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Awesome. I think this will be a popular circuit.  |
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cyclopsitis
Nobel Prize Winner
Canada
732 Posts |
Posted - Feb 10 2007 : 11:33:13 AM
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| how did you go about designing the circuit! I have one hell of a time designing things! I think its because I draw something up and exspect it to work the first time... Never really the case but what is your process?? |
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Turbo_Boss
New Member
Panama
4 Posts |
Posted - Feb 11 2007 : 7:00:55 PM
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| Hello Bob, thx for the schematic. What I dont undertand is why the 555 system is activated with a positive door unlock pulse. Can you explain this? |
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bob
Apprentece
6 Posts |
Posted - Feb 14 2007 : 3:36:10 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by cyclopsitis
how did you go about designing the circuit! I have one hell of a time designing things! I think its because I draw something up and exspect it to work the first time... Never really the case but what is your process??
I did not actually design the circuit, I made some minor modifications to the circuit found at http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/relaytim.htm . Mostly with trial/error I was able to get what I wanted. |
Edited by - bob on Feb 14 2007 4:01:04 PM |
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bob
Apprentece
6 Posts |
Posted - Feb 14 2007 : 3:59:07 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Turbo_Boss
Hello Bob, thx for the schematic. What I dont undertand is why the 555 system is activated with a positive door unlock pulse. Can you explain this?
The 555 should be activated by a momentary drop in voltage at the trigger (by momentarily connecting trigger to ground). I have a GM car and there is one wire for the unlock pulse and another for lock pulse. The pulse goes from ground to 12V when the door is locked or unlocked. There is also a slight amount of voltage on the unlock wire when the door is locked and vice versa. When I connect the unlock wire to the circuit and press the unlock button on the remote, the 555 still triggers (when you would assume it should not). I believe this is because there is a slight drop in voltage on the trigger that I can not notice on the voltage meter (all I see is the voltage actually going up for a short period!) and may be specific to the door lock mechanism on my car. Now, if I remove the 1K resistor before the diode, the 555 will still be triggered (like normal) by the unlock pulse, but it will also be triggered (for less than a second the LED lights up) when I press the lock button on the remote. I hope this helps.
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Need Circuit Project to Improve Remote Car Alarm
