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importracer689
Apprentece
USA
8 Posts |
 Posted - Mar 29 2007 : 11:23:48 PM
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Aaron (and whoever else is reading) I was previously interested in a remote turbo set up, but instead have decided to to an aaroncake-like swap.
I just purchased a stock exhaust manifold, 2 of the 4 550 injectors is will need, and in the next two weeks, I will have the other 2 550cc injectors, a good stock turbo, and an AFC NEO that i sourced for 125 bucks (couldnt believe it). I intend to use a walbro 255 pump (because it is cheaper than a new stock fd pump and will flow better). I will use the aaroncake style spacer using 2 racing beat flanges, and will have a buddy (dad owns a welding/fab shop) make me a downpipe. I intend to tap the turbo oil by modding the banjo bolt (so it is reversible) and pull the pan and install a bung to thread an oil drain fitting into (that way I can remove it as well and plug the bung if i ever wanted to).
Let me know how this sounds (and for the record, i'm not a noob, just to this, i drive a ranger with a v8 that i built from the ground up in my mom's driveway).
Question is this, i do not want to notch my frame for wastegate clearance, so i was thinking of locking the stock wastegate closed, and running an external wastegate (which i already have) but my question is, in order to install the wastegate, can i put an intermediate pipe between the pieces of two inch exhaust pipe spacers, and run the wastegate off of it, like a small "h" pipe between the two spacer pieces of pipe, running to the external wastegate? |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Mar 30 2007 : 09:38:31 AM
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Seems reasonable. Instead of the spacer, why not just build a manifold? If you know someone with a fab shop they can knocke it together in a few hours. That eliminates the problem of having to deal with the wastegate.
If you don't want to do that, you can certainly clock the compressor housing to move the actuator up and then modifiy the rod to reach the flapper.
Or run the actuator remotely and use a bit of bicycle gear cable to connect to the flapper.
Of course setting up an external wastegate at the space will work, but at that point you are 50% of the way to making a new manifold so why not just go all the way? |
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importracer689
Apprentece
USA
8 Posts |
Posted - Apr 01 2007 : 01:57:49 AM
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that's not a bad idea, but i can talk my buddy into welding up the pieces that i already cut and fit, but i couldnt talk him into making me a manifold, and it is cheaper to do it this way, and im busting my bank account to turbocharge the 7, (which i do realize is unreasonable). but, i think i can manage it pretty cheaply.
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importracer689
Apprentece
USA
8 Posts |
Posted - Apr 12 2007 : 01:20:06 AM
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update on project.
I have gotten a stock s4 manifold, a stock s4 turbo, 4 550 injectors, the external wastegate (38mm xs), and a smallish FMIC off of a j-spec nissan. I will be on my way with actual fabrication soon.
Mark |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Apr 13 2007 : 09:16:45 AM
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| Cool. I think you'll be the first to integrate an external wastegate in the spacer. Can't wait to see the result. |
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importracer689
Apprentece
USA
8 Posts |
Posted - Apr 16 2007 : 12:31:01 AM
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| i thought that i would rather run an external wastegate than deal with modifying the frame/body for the wastegate actuator, and since im having to weld a spacer anyway, i may as well incorporate the wastegate. |
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importracer689
Apprentece
USA
8 Posts |
Posted - Apr 26 2007 : 2:15:00 PM
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hey aaron,
i was wondering, would it be possible to weld the stock manifold to the flange on the manifold side of the spacer, eliminating the need for a gasket there, and bolts?
also, i discovered that my work (advance auto parts) sells the same PN fuel pump for a non turbo and turbo fc, so with an afc and 550 injectors would i be okay running my stock fuel pump?
mark |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Apr 27 2007 : 09:16:44 AM
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The stock exhaust manifold is made of a high nitrile cast iron, while the flanges are generally made of cast steel (still a high temp material, but different). My guess is that you would use a high nickle electrode, plenty of pre-heat, and cool it slowly in an oven or via a torch with a slightly carborizing flame. However you still may find cracking issues because the two metals have vastly different expansion rates. Best to consult a welder qualified in the process for advice.
The fuel pumps between turbo and NA are certainly NOT the same, so I worry about an auto parts store that claims they are. You're going to need an upgraded pump. The FC or Walbro is an inexpensive choice. Don't use the TII pump as it does not give you enough room to grow. |
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cyclopsitis
Nobel Prize Winner
Canada
732 Posts |
Posted - Apr 27 2007 : 9:01:10 PM
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Aaron, where do you get all this info from!? haha your a cool guy!!
K |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Apr 29 2007 : 10:43:56 AM
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| Experience mostly. I started by reading the Factory Service Manual from cover to cover, as well as the Haynes manual. The rest is just getting my hands dirty... |
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OKay.. new turbo ideas
