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cirvin
Nobel Prize Winner
USA
1542 Posts |
 Posted - Nov 15 2005 : 3:24:43 PM
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I'm pretty sure most plastic insulation is PVC, but try gluing a small peice of the wire to test it. I'm pretty sure there are other glues out there that would be able to glue the wires sufficently.
http://daxter12.topcities.com <Updated:July |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Nov 18 2005 : 09:26:45 AM
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Wire insulation can be many things. You may just want to put a stud through the pipe, seal both ends, and then connect the wire to it as a pass-through.
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yo_tyler
Apprentice
Canada
87 Posts |
Posted - Nov 18 2005 : 10:37:06 AM
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I don't want to use any metal to go through the pipe than is absolutly nessisary, becouse it is exreemly hard to get a good seal.
I returned to test caps, so now i have to call around and find the real things. Sine i only have a foot of pipe to show for my efforts, i havn't posted any pictures. But....Bad news, it turnes out that the camera has a rediculusly sensitive light sensor, and wont take the picture if its not light enough, and it will be too dark under water for shure. Now i have to find a ways to maybe have a small led to light up the lense or something. Oh well, it will be worth it.
"If the women don't find you hansome, they should at least find you handy" -Red Green |
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Kale
Nobel Prize Winner
Canada
795 Posts |
Posted - Nov 18 2005 : 11:54:58 AM
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quote:
it turns out that the camera has a rediculusly sensitive light sensor, and wont take the picture if its not light enough, and it will be too dark under water for shure. Now i have to find a ways to maybe have a small led to light up the lense or something.
Are you sure the camera will be able to work at all in the light levels you are expecting underwater? Even if you override the light sensor lockout somehow, the camera probably won't work too well underwater if it's not sensitive enough. If you have control over the 'shutter' time for the camera, leaving it open longer will let you gather more light and increase the camera sensitivity.
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Nov 19 2005 : 10:26:36 AM
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Sealing metal through the pipe is easy. In fact, it may be much easier then you assume. Simply drill and tap the appropriate sized hole, cover the bolt in sealant, then tighten it into the hole. It also works well if you drill the hole just slightly undersized, heat up the bolt, and then screw it into place. You can also put a nut and washer on each side, with a sealing washer underneath.
As for your lighting, what about a ring of white LEDs around the outside of the pipe? Use the outside so the LEDs won't light the Lexan.
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yo_tyler
Apprentice
Canada
87 Posts |
Posted - Nov 19 2005 : 1:54:32 PM
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I was thinking of just using an inch of 3/4" pipe and glueing it onto the middle of the lexan. then take a walmart flashlight and mount it on the outside of this ring of pipe. the lense would get pushed up against the ring of pipe. this sould stop any glare. i dont want anything on the outside that isn't absolutly nessisary, becouse it only means more water proofing.
"If the women don't find you hansome, they should at least find you handy" -Red Green |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Nov 20 2005 : 09:43:00 AM
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The LEDs can be directly in the water, they don't need to be sealed. The LEDs themselves are already sealed from the factory, and the connections are a low enough voltage that it doesn't matter unless the water is very conductive (ie. Dead Sea).
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yo_tyler
Apprentice
Canada
87 Posts |
Posted - Nov 20 2005 : 2:23:21 PM
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Well i found a place to get the caps. Ironically its a small local hardware shop. The end cap is $4~, and the clean out (both parts) is $8~. Even the large contractor supply in town was more than that.
How would i power the LEDs? And wouldn't it be easier to use an incandescent light, it would be cheaper, and provide much more light, at the expense of efficiency...but its only being use for less then one minit in total.
"If the women don't find you hansome, they should at least find you handy" -Red Green |
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Nov 21 2005 : 09:47:31 AM
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You woudl just run the LEDs from a battery with a series resistor.
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yo_tyler
Apprentice
Canada
87 Posts |
Posted - Nov 27 2005 : 1:49:27 PM
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I have the end cap and the cleanout now. Yay!
Today im going to shape a piece of wood that will fit on the wall of the pipe, and witht he help of a 1/4" bolt, allow me to m,ount the camera inside with its tripod mount. Im still humming-and-hawing about the lighting. I think im just going to use an incandesent flashlight buld on the inside . I don't want to spend any more mony on this, and the amount of leds i would need would cost quite a bit.
"If the women don't find you hansome, they should at least find you handy" -Red Green |
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yo_tyler
Apprentice
Canada
87 Posts |
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Kale
Nobel Prize Winner
Canada
795 Posts |
Posted - Nov 29 2005 : 12:33:19 PM
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Watch out for heat issues with the flashlight. Incandescent bulbs will put out significant heat, and if it's in that sealed tube it MAY be a problem.
LEDs are seriously more reliable and effective. Buy them from the Chi Wing LED shop on Ebay. He's reliable, and they are VERY cheap. Takes about 1 to 2 weeks for shipping maximum. Usually about a week in my experience.
About 10 of his high-brightness white LEDs costs around $8 to $10, and that should probably be enough light for you. They're blinding! (not your daddy's LEDs)
The LEDs will also mean you'll never have to open the tube to replace a burnt-out lightbulb, and they produce almost no heat. Like Aaron says, you can just stick them right in the water too. If you want to be extra careful, sillicone caulking or other sealing goop can be globbed onto them once you've soldered the connections to them. Just glom them onto the sides of the pipe near the camera window.
Kale
quote:
I think im just going to use an incandesent flashlight buld on the inside . I don't want to spend any more mony on this, and the amount of leds i would need would cost quite a bit.
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Pressure tank ideas
