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DELETED (Inactive)
30 Posts |
 Posted - Feb 01 2003 : 10:07:35 PM
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Well i've basicly finished my turbo conversion on my car now.
However now it wont start  it's really badly flooded, well it was yesterday anyway. I took the plugs out and turned the engine over and got all the crap out of it, and also cleaned the plugs put it back together, no go...
So this morning I went to start it up, started up nearly instantly. However I stupidly let my foot of the accelerator pedal and it died (no BAC valve..). So yeah, no it wont start up again...
Any ideas on what I can do? other than push start it?(I live on a fairly main road so I dont wanna do that if I can help it...)
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 02 2003 : 11:30:19 AM
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Do the standard unflooding. Dump an ounce of oil into each rotor, pull your EGI fuse and then crank. Now put the fuse back in and start the car.
And while the car is running, back off those injectors. If you are using an S-AFC and TII injectors, take about 15% off to start, then tune it it properly later.
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n/a
DELETED (Inactive)
30 Posts |
Posted - Feb 03 2003 : 02:15:03 AM
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Yeah I FINALLY got it started, now it will start fine everytime, but it wont hold an idle at all...
even after its been warmed up a bit! (by holding throttle open a little..)
it runs REALLY REALLY rough between 0-2500rpm, only at about 3000rpm will it rev cleanly... me thinks that I have a Massive vac. leak some where between the AFM and the engine.... but I have no idea where.. any ideas?
oh and I don't have an SAFC, or bigger injectors, it's all stock at the moment....
Until I put in a Microtech LTX8 and two 1000cc secondaries  . I just wanted to get it all running properly(not boosting it at all obviously..) now so I could find all these problems before I put that in a new computer and injectors.
I found another prob today, bwteen where I tapped into the banjo bolt head and the hose to the turbo oil feed it is leaking.... So i've taken it all appart ran a tap through the thread again and a die over the bolt, put shit loads of sealant in the thread and around the bolt and done it all up again, we'll have to see tomorrow wether it worked or not...
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 03 2003 : 09:29:06 AM
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Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Finding it could be irritating since you can't keep the car running without your foot on the pedal... Try holding the throttle open via the linkage on the throttle body, and use a Super Soaker to blast water around the engine. When it stalls (due to pulling in the water) you have found your leak. Immediately start it up again and run it for a while to dry things out. Carb cleaner also works, but is very flammable.
As for your oil leak, you will need to use pipe dope to seal it. Or even better, copper crush washers. But they are hard ot find, so head to a plumbing store and pick up a tube of pipe dope ($2). Make sure it is oil-safe (obviously).
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n/a
DELETED (Inactive)
30 Posts |
Posted - Feb 03 2003 : 6:27:44 PM
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Well I found the vacume leak!! finally, what I did was to hold my hand over the AFM as to block any air going out of it, then presureise the intake by blowing into one of the pipes. It worked I finally traced it back to the EGR valve, or at least, where it used to be I made a block off plate for it but for some bizare stupid reason reused the old crusty bumpy gasket... so now i made a new gasket for it and hopefully that should fix my problems..
quote:
As for your oil leak, you will need to use pipe dope to seal it. Or even better, copper crush washers. But they are hard ot find, so head to a plumbing store and pick up a tube of pipe dope ($2). Make sure it is oil-safe (obviously).
Allready tried Cu crush wasers...... i've used some heavy duty Silicon stuff that is apparently good for 150Deg. C. and oil proof. We'll see how that goes later today when I put it back on.
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 05 2003 : 4:03:44 PM
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Hm, I wouldn't trust that silicone stuff. Oil temps can easily be greater then 150 under normal driving. Also, the turbo really heats up the oil if you are tapping directly off the cooler. Pipe dope is the only way to go.
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DELETED (Inactive)
30 Posts |
Posted - Feb 05 2003 : 8:33:46 PM
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Hm, I wouldn't trust that silicone stuff. Oil temps can easily be greater then 150 under normal driving. Also, the turbo really heats up the oil if you are tapping directly off the cooler. Pipe dope is the only way to go.
Well all is good at the moment, the silicone is only really sealing the outside of the connection so that wouldn't be as hot as the oil, no?
Either way if this stuff up I will go and get some pipe dope.
I STILL have intake bloody leaks... I thought i'd found them all but obviously not.. but the car is driveable now.
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Aaron Cake
Administrator
Canada
6718 Posts |
Posted - Feb 07 2003 : 11:22:15 AM
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Did you use gasket sealer on the intake gaskets? If the mating surfaces were not completely clean before you installed the intake, it will leak if a sealer is not used.
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n/a
DELETED (Inactive)
30 Posts |
Posted - Feb 07 2003 : 8:50:42 PM
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Did you use gasket sealer on the intake gaskets? If the mating surfaces were not completely clean before you installed the intake, it will leak if a sealer is not used.
Nope, no gasket sealer, but I made damm sure that they were totally clean of the old gasket and any other impurfections. However this is still a possibility that that is my problem.. I will have to investigate this further.
My car is currently getting it's exhaust fitted right now, 3in from the turbo to the cat, so i won't be able to test this out until monday sometime though!
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Dammit car wont start now....
