| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Yerboogieman |
Posted - Aug 20 2011 : 02:34:41 AM
I have an old lawn mower that I'm interested in fixing up. I want to rebuild the carb and do a basic tune up on it. (Plus a chrome exhaust and some Royal Purple) ;-) I remember you having some articles around here somewhere but I lost track of them.
I want to convert it from front drive to push drive and weld straight bars on it instead of the broken fold over ones.
Do you have any tips for removing the drive system and bolting on regular front lawn mower wheels? (One wheel is broken and fixed with 8 screws and the bottom of a coffee can as replacement wheels are quite hard to find) I might take pictures to give a rough idea of how it works.
I used my neighbors mower without drive and it moved so much easier and I finished that lawn a lot quicker.
If it helps, it's a Yard Machines Briggs and Stratton. |
| 7 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Aaron Cake |
Posted - Sep 04 2011 : 10:28:06 AM
Is it a two stroke or a 4 stroke? If it's a 4 stoke, most typical engines take 500ML of 10W-30. If it's a two stroke, your oil/fuel mix ratio will be on the fuel filler cap. |
| Yerboogieman |
Posted - Sep 03 2011 : 5:40:26 PM
Sorry, not crankcase filter, Valve cover filter. I was just talking about the oil I put in the mower. |
| Aaron Cake |
Posted - Sep 03 2011 : 10:28:44 AM
Two stroke engines wouldn't require crankcase oil.
I had a chrome exhaust tip on the lawnmower for years.
Yes, electric starters can be done. They are either easy or hard, depending on the engine. For example, many engines have an electric start option from the factory so it may be as simple as buying the starter and bolting it on (sometimes the flywheel needs to be changed to one with a ring gear). If no such option is available, then some fab work is necessary. |
| Yerboogieman |
Posted - Sep 02 2011 : 01:42:43 AM
Well, the reason I want to put other wheels on there is because the drive ones are quite heavy for reasons unknown.
What is really surprising and kind of cool is the belt tensioning system, The friction drive torque converter springs back everytime I move it one way. I will probably keep it intact for later use on another project.
After soaking everything in WD-40, installing a new spark plug, fuel dilter, and removing the air filter, it fired right up with a bit of starting fluid. Runs so good infact, I don't think it needs the carb rebuilt at all. But I am modifying one of those crankcase cone filters to fit where the old filter was.
Next I am finishing removing the drive system, sharpening the blade, and painting it with some black spray paint. As for oil,
How much do 2-stroke engines usually take? I'm pretty sure 10W-30 is okay to use.
Is it really possible to install an electric starter? And do you really have a chrome exhaust on your mower? |
| Aaron Cake |
Posted - Aug 27 2011 : 10:22:50 AM
If it is a friction drive to the wheels, then just removing the friction drive components should leave you with regular lawnmower wheels. |
| Yerboogieman |
Posted - Aug 26 2011 : 10:54:14 AM
A belt goes into this other mechanism that turns it into twin drive with gears that rub on the inside of the wheels. I'm thinking if I take out the axle and gears, I can reattach the same wheels, or new wheels if I want. |
| Aaron Cake |
Posted - Aug 21 2011 : 10:14:51 AM
Should be no problem finding carb kits at the local small engine shop.
I'm not sure how your specific drive system works but most just have a simple shaft on a bearing, and then either a twisted belt or an auxiliary drive out of the crankcase. And a simple clutch mechanism. Since the deck is designed for all this, the best way to swap it to a manual push is probably to swap decks. |
